I don't know why Mr Galliano has got me feeling like I want to write again but it can only be a good thing, non?
Yesterday afternoon in a stark industrial setting near Buckingham Palace in London, John Galliano presented his first collection as newly appointed head of Maison Martin Margiela. I will be honest and say that MMM is a new name for me and I only saw the name dotted around and never took much notice of it. But looking through their back catalogue, Galliano was not the most obvious choice as he is more known and loved for his theatrics in, dare I say it, a more costume style rather than the more modern avant garde approach that MMM are known for.
It was definitely not typically him and I think was still in keeping with the MMM brand but I could definitely see a Galliano signature.
There were great historical references and also different art movements that I could see creeping in. Take this gorgeous coat which I think has tudor inspiration with the gilding and frogging, in 60s smock shape and then modernised with the clear pvc pockets.
Looking at some of the pieces reminded me of the Cubism movement and artists such as Picasso and also the artwork for The White Stripes album 'De Stijl', picked up by the faces that feature on some of the pieces and also the stripes on the shoes and hosiery.
If you look at this one below as well, he showed his rebellious side is still there, featuring a few pieces with raw edges of fabric and tacking on show. A reflection of him showing his insides to the world, perhaps? Maybe I'm over-thinking it but I feel I can see an emotional connection after the shameful sacking from Dior after his racist tirade in Paris in 2011. (Well I have to mention it somewhere, don't I?)
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I think the grandeur of some of the coats were possibly my personal favourites. The two coats below would be suitable for a cold night ride in a carriage through the forest with a dashing dandy.
Then surprisingly the later half of the collection was much more toned down in the sense of simplicity. I would never call Galliano's work simple. There always seems to be fine, intricate detail and everything finished to the T. But he presented a simple, beautifully tailored, oversized suit and a perfectly deconstructed pair of trousers reconstructed into a dress. Very clever.
But of course, Galliano's theatrics can never be too far. I think this was the perfect statement to end the show with. The bejewelled mask is a nod back to the previous collection (as shown previously from the MMM collection in 2012) and to me says 'I have changed... but I am still me.'
Overall, I thought it was a really good return and the more I look at the pieces the more I like it. I think its one that grows on you. It's not the typical Galliano style throughout (I mean... he included denim short shorts. That did not have any business in the collection and definitely will not be featuring on my blog.) I'd love to know who did the amazing bejewelled make up though. When I think of Galliano's past collections, part of me does miss the extravagance and opulence that we know and love but as a whole I think its a great Watch This Space moment.
Look at the rest of the collection here.... What do you think?
-JV-
All unlinked photos are sourced from Style.com
